Lilums

By S. H. Hunt from 1934 Year Book of the Royal Horticultural Society of N.S.W., pp 50 to 52

There are many classes of plants termed “Lilies” which are not even allied to the true Lilums; but those who wish to distinguish the true Liliums can easily do so by the formation of the bulbs, which are composed of scales or segments, joined together at the base from which emanates the roots that feed the bulbs. Some varieties from a second system of roots on the stems above the bulbs base, from which emanates the roots that feed the bulbs.

Amongst these stem rooting Liliums are the magnificent and quite hardy speciosums – commonly called the white or pink Tiger Lilies, and Lilium tigrinum, which is rightly termed as such.

The acme of daintiness and grace, together with magnificent coloring, is expressed in these lovely lilies in a manner not excelled by any other flowers. There are several varieties of Liliums well known to Australian gardens: roseum, rubrum, magnificum, and melpomene are similar in shape, having delightfully reflexed petals, which are of varying shades of pink according to the variety, and all are heavily dotted with deepest crimson spots. The quaint anthers, of deep chocolate color, complete blooms which compel attention and command admiration whenever seen. speciosum Album is the pure white form of the species. All these lilies are also sweetly fragrant.

The genuine Tiger lily is a great favorite, because if the ease with which it may be grown, even by raw amateurs. It is easily recognized by the well reflexed petals, which are reddish orange in color with numerous spots of deep brown or black.

There is a double form of the Tiger Lily which is the most quaintly formed. The coloring is the same as that of the single variety.

Lillium henryii has been aptly named the “Handsome Lily”. It is similar in shape to the Tiger lily, but the colour is a rich golden yellow, with darker spots. Three hundred blooms were counted on a clump of this wonderful variety last season in one of Sydney’s private gardens on the North Shore.

The Golden Rayed lily of Japan, Lilium auratum, causes one to wonder if it can be real! The tremendous size of the blooms, the immense numbers borne on each plant, the magnificent gold bands which seem to be hand painted along the center of each pure white petal, the bloom itself dotted freely with dark spots , all combine to place this variety on a pedestal far above all other species. I have been told that the Japanese eat the bulbs of this lovely lily – it seems a sacrilege!

Lilium regale – The Regal lily, is another wonderful variety which has flowers of large size , trumpet shaped, and a perfume that is simply delightful. It is quite easily to grow and is becoming very popular.

The Leopard or panther lily – Lilium pardalinum, is unique on account of bearing flowers of various colours on the same plant. The blooms vary from yellow, through many different shades, to almost scarlet; and the effect is quite appealing. This lily likes a moist position in full sunlight, and its rhizomes should be planted about a foot apart.

Amongst pure white liliums are the well known November lily (harrisii) and Lilium candidum, which is the Madonna lily or the Italians and the Levant.

Reference to recent catalogues discloses such names as elegans, sulphureum, giganteum, davidsonium, and sulphurgale hybrids and hosts of other beautiful varieties too numerous to mention.

All the foregoing are true Liliums, and should you wish to grow them it will prove quite an easy matter if a few simple precautions are taken.

A mistaken idea that the bulbs are difficult to handle has been responsible for many people being diffident about trying their hand at growing them, but as a matter of fact,Liliums are not more difficult to grow than many other plants which find a place in average gardens. One or two things must be observed in order to attain success, but these are quite simple, and should not offer any great degree of trouble to anyone desiring to avail themselves of the undoubted advantage offered by quite a number of the best kinds of Liliums.

One of the chief reasons for failure lies in keeping the bulbs out of ground for any great length of time, and garden lovers will find it much better to allow the bulbs to remain in the ground for a number of seasons, until at last the clump becomes too congested to permit the bulbs producing flowers of good size and quality. When the clumps need dividing it is better to lift the bulbs grade them into fairly even sizes and re-plant them immediately into other positions than the one which was previously occupied. There is good reason however, for keeping Lilium bulbs out of the ground in the same manner as is practiced with Daffodils and other Spring flowering bulbs.

Another reason for failure is that many people persist in planting Liliums in positions where the bulbs are subject to the heat of the summer sun, as well as the drying influence of hot winds. If a position is chosen where the bulbs are kept cool during hot weather, one of the greatest difficulties in the culture of these beautiful bulbous plants will be overcome.

A position that suits them admirably is between deciduous shrubs provided that the foliage of the shrubs is fairly high form the ground, and doesn’t interfere with the growth of the Liliums. Deciduous shrubs are the most suited for the purpose in view, because they carry foliage during the warm months of the year, and this form semi-shade and a degree of shelter fro the bulbs during hot months of the year. During winter months they drop their foliage, and this allow the sun to shine uninterruptedly on the soil keeping the bulbs fairly warm during the cooler winter months.

The soil best suited for Lilium culture is a fairly deep, well drained light loam; though most of the varieties succeed admirably on average garden soils; but they dislike anything in the way of new animal manure, and resent its presence very forcibly. If plenty of well rotted leaf mould is available, and some very old decomposed cow manure, no further manures or fertilizers will be needed. Where leaf mould is unobtainable, the organic peat sold by nurseries will prove of extreme value. This is a vegetable compost obtained from deposits which are evidently thousands of years old, and are brought here form the other side of the earth. This peat represents the nearest possible approach to the natural food of Liliums, and most other plants.

In planting Liliums, it is better to group them, say from three to six bulbs in each clump.

And as most varieties form roots on the stems above the bulbs, it will readily be perceived that deep planting pays, or if it is inconvenient to plant the bulbs deeply, a thick mulch of leaf mould or decomposed cow manure will be necessary, and can be spread over the surface surrounding the plants when the latter are about half grown. Not only does this mulching protect the bulbs from the heat of the sun , but at each watering plant food is washed from the mulching down to the roots and larger flowers of better quality will result.

The less hardy varieties such as Lilium auratum should be planted with a little extra care. I have found that very little trouble is experienced in growing even the tricky varieties if some sand is put in the bottom of the hole, then the bulbs are placed into position, but left uncovered until such time as they form roots and the bulbs become hardened; then sand can be added, sufficient to cover the bulbs entirely.

When the foliage appears, and the plants begin to grow in earnest will be soon enough to complete filling into surface level . The chief reason for losses when planting Liliums in similar manner to that adopted for other bulbs, is that the Lilium bulbs are formed of so many scales, and when they are allowed to remain out of ground for any length of time these scales become limp and fall back from their usual position, and in that state, the scales collect water which is applied after planting, and carry the moisture down to the base of the bulb- it there sets up a rot which destroys the bulb – but when the bulbs are placed on top of moist sand , they absorb sufficient moisture instead of collecting it as is the case when they are in a loose condition.

People have failed again and again in planting Lilium auratum bulbs. The reason lies sometimes in the spores of a fungus disease that are hidden in the scales of the bulbs. If you mix a little dry sulphur with the sand with which you encase each bulb when planting fewer failures will result. A light top dressing of kainit or sulphate of potash on the surface soil around the plants when they are in active growth, will also be of service.

Although Liliums are a bit impatient of too much water until they are growing strongly, the bulbs must not be kept too dry – try to strike a happy medium.

When they are in full growth and during the flowering period, they like plenty of water especially if the postion is as well drained as it should be.

The planting period for Liliums varies according to the variety and the climate. Usually Liliums candidum, harrisii and others of that type are available in march or April, followed in May by the speciosums, auratums etc. The planting season is usually short on account of the bulbs suffering whilst out of the ground.